Monday, December 29, 2014

Dec.29, 2014. And a few days earlier......

I am back in Luang Prabang in the Lao P. D..R.,  one of the most enjoyable places I have ever visited.

I loved it here last year and was afraid that a return visit would be a disappointment.  Not so.  Luang Prabang is even better this time.  It is a relaxing city with a French colonial charm and a European feel.   A clean, friendly, safe, beautiful city of about 40,000, on the banks of the Mekong.  It is also a World Heritage Site - like Bhaktapour in Nepal and Angkor Wat in Cambodia.  

I rented a bicycle and rode about 10 miles this morning.  Tomorrow morning I will do the same.

A tuk tuk.  I have taken many, many rides in the back of tuk tuks.......some are bigger, not many are smaller.



The Mekong, just 50 feet to the west of my hotel room.  The river bank is lined with restaurants and tables.   It is so relaxing spending the afternoons watching the slow boats ply the Mekong over a BeerLao.......

The Nam Khan River, which empties into the Mekong at Luang Prabang.







The food is fantastic.  From street stalls, to fresh fruit smoothies to $40.00 a plate French cuisine.....
Tonight I had an Australian ribeye steak.......

View from my hotel balcony, same guest house, same room as last year!!!

Pak Beng, 70 km above Luang Prabang on the Mekong.  The view was from my hotel room balcony.



Tomorrow I will tour an English language school here in Luang Prabang that is run by a Brit I met on the slow boat ride several days ago.  I will be exploring returning to Luang Prabang for several months next year to teach English.












Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Christmas Eve



All good.  Left Bamboo Nest and now on the way to Lao in 1 hour.  No inet last 3 days.

Will post more  later.


Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Dec. 16, 2014. The News on TV.

In Chiang Rai there are 2 English stations on the flat screen TV in my room - BBC and Aljazeera.

With the recent massacres of inocents in Sydney and Pakistan, I am favorably impressed by the objective, unbiased reporting on Aljazeera   The cynic in me says Algazeera might be less objective when broadcast in Farsi or Arabic.  

Aljazeera showed almost the entire speech made yesterday of Secty. of State John Kerry in London.  Then there were numerous interviews with the heads of state - from Australia, Pakistan, the UK - covering the barbaric nature of the attacks.  On what U.S. TV station would you see more than soundbites of Secty. Kerry?

Much of the coverage on both Aljazeera and BBC for the last 48 hours has been covering these two events, but there is also news about Russia's financial crisis, Jeb Bush's aspirations, Syria and ISIS, Palestine, the CIA and torture, and of course, football, as in soccer.

It was my perception that Algazeera was a pro Islamic spin machine, fomenting hatred of westerners and supporting Islamic beliefs.  I was wrong.  There are women on the anchor desks, in western clothing, speaking fluent English, along with male anchors. 

Aljazeera.com




Dec. 16, 2014 Chiang Rai, White Temple.


Took the motorbike out for a spin and visited The White Temple yesterday.














The white temple in Chiang Rai
The White Temple
Name
Wat Rong Khun, “The White Temple”
Date
Completely rebuild late 20th century onward
Location
Off Highway 1 (Phahonyothin road)
15 kilometers South West of Chiang Rai town

Wat Rong Khun, better known as “the White Temple” is one of the most recognizable temples in Thailand. The temple outside the town of Chiang Rai attracts a large number of visitors, both Thai and foreign, making it one of Chiang Rai’s most visited attractions.

Wat Rong Khun is a unique temple that stands out through the white color and the use of pieces of glass in the plaster, sparkling in the sun. The white color signifies the purity of the Buddha, while the glass symbolizes the Buddha’s wisdom and the Dhamma, the Buddhist teachings.

The Wat Rong Khun was designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, a famous Thai visual artist. To date the temple is not finished. Eventually there will be nine buildings including an ubosot, a hall to enshrine Buddhist relics, a meditation hall, the monks living quarters and an art gallery.

History of the Wat Rong Khun

Towards the end of the 20th century, the original Wat Rong Khun was in a very poor state of preservation. Restoration works on the temple started, but had to be halted due to a lack of funds.

Chalermchai Kositpipat, a artist born in Chiang Rai, decided to completely rebuild the temple and fund the project with his own money. The artist built the temple to be a center of learning and meditation and for people to gain benefit from the Buddhist teachings. Today the works are ongoing.

Structures and their symbolism

Every detail of the temple carries meaning and encourages the visitor to reflect on the Buddhist teachings that show the way to escape from the worldly temptations, desires and greed and focus on the mind instead.

The bridge of “the cycle of rebirth”

The ubosot, the main building of the white temple, is reached by crossing a bridge over a small lake. In front of the bridge is a circular area with hundreds of reaching hands that symbolize desire. This area represents human suffering and hell. The bridge towards the ubosot, called the bridge of “the cycle of rebirth” signifies the crossing over from the cycle of death and rebirth into a state free of suffering. It symbolizes the way to happiness by overcoming worldly things as temptations, greed and desire. Next to the lake stand two very elegant Kinnaree, a creature from Buddhist mythology, half human, half bird.

The “Gate of Heaven”

After crossing the bridge the visitor arrives at the “Gate of Heaven” guarded by two huge creatures that represent Death and Rahu, who decides over men’s fate. At the end of the bridge in front of the ubosot are several Buddha images in meditation.

The ubosot

The most important building of the Wat Rong Khun, the ubosot is an all white building with fragments of reflective glass in the plaster. The very ornate ubosot shows some design elements of classic Northern Thai temples like the three tiered roof and stylized Naga serpents on the bargeboards.

Whereas the murals of many old temples depict scenes from Buddhist stories, the walls of the white temple contain colorful murals that depict modern representations of good and evil, contemporary figures like Batman, Spiderman and Elvis, villains and superheroes from movies and comics and even spaceships. On the back wall of the ubosot is a golden mural of the Buddha, a few images of the Buddha in front of it.




Sunday, December 14, 2014

Dec 11,12,13, 2014

Nothing exciting for the last several days.  I just laid around, sat in the sun, enjoyed the half functioning shower and air conditioner.  In the afternoons I would explore Koh Phangan on the bike.

Just before I came across the largest Yang Na tree on the island, I encountered a police roadblock.  I had read that the police often set up roadblocks and conduct searches for drugs on the plethora of young folks on the island.  There were about 4 policemen standing in the middle of the road and they made me stop, turn of the bike, get off the bike and take off my daypack which they searched thoroughly.  

My pack was almost empty and I had only brought it with me so I could carry some groceries home.  They looked all through my bag then gave me a pat down, checking the contents of every pocket.  Then they asked me to open the compartment under the seat. Then I was given a green light to continue. It was the only search stop I witnessed while on the island.

I had read that if you were caught with drugs on Koh Phangan....and I am sure that at the Half Moon Party there were plenty of them, though I was not ever offered any....you could bribe the police with a couple of hundred bucks and get released.  

In Kathmandu I was repeatedly offered drugs dozens of times from peddelers on the streets of Thamel.  I laughed at them or ignored them.

I took the ferry back to the mainland, an enjoyable 3 hour boat ride.  

I caught a bus from the ferry terminal to the Surat Thani bus station then took a ride in the back of a tuktuk the rest of the way back to Hip Box 26.  After a bit of confusion, I was able to successfully convey that I already paid for a room last week.  Then I was able to get the bag I left with the desk before I departed to Koh Phangan. 

I settled into my shipping container converted into a cozy, clean room with a good AC and shower.


At Hip Box I met up with two young Brits, Romona and Tom, and we later walked about a mile and had dinner together.  She was a singer/actress and he made music videos. We drank some beers and enjoyed the evening around the pool.

Early the following morning I took a taxi ride in the back of a tuktuk to the Surat Thani airport and caught my flight to BKK then connected to Chiang Rai.

I have made the following 13 flights so far on this trip:

Portland to Washington DC
DC to Munich
Munich to Ankara
Ankara to Sinop
Ankara to Istanbul
Istanbul to Kathmandu
Lhasa to Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Lukla
Lukla to Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Bangkok
Bangkok to Surat Thani
Surat Thani to Bangkok
Bangkok to Chiang Rai

Namaste

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Dec. 9, 10, 2014. Koh Phangan Island

I have now spent nearly two and a half months on the international travel road, planning or negotiating  flights, bus rides, cab rides, hotels or guesthouses and then moving - all the  packing, then backpacking my bag and changing rooms on the average every two days.  Struggling with power outages, crappy inet connections, uploading the blog, cold weather, basic accomodations, etc.

Ban Tai on Koh Phangan feels like a great place to chill, in comfort and with easy transport - my rental motorbike.


I stay up late.   I sleep late in the morning after getting up to watch the sunrise.  I take naps.  When I am tired of laying around or I am humgry or thirsty, I go to town on the motorbike.   When I am bored, I go for a ride..

 
There is not much exciting to blog about on Koh Phangan.  Many roads I have been on multiple times.  Today, I returned to Haad Rin, the site of the FMP or Full Moon Party, my first return since I left the dorm style hostel the morning after the FMP.  

Today, Haad Rin, on the southern tip of the island, was just a sleepy little Thai island ghost town compared to last week.  Few people were there.  Maybe 40 or 50 folks on the beach.  The restaurants were either closed, or empty, with the local Thai staff sitting at one table shooting the shit.  Most of the beachside bars that were jam packed the day of and the night of FMP, were boarded up.  Most hotels and guesthouses looked empty. The motorcycle rental shops had dozens of bikes to rent- last week most bikes were rented. 

Tommy's at Haad Rin Beach

I walked the beach then returned on foot via town and all the shops to "Tommy's".  There was one table occupied.  I stopped for 45 minutes, relaxed even more and had a beer.

I then got on the bike and went around Haad Rin further.  All over town the store owners sat curbside in the shade or else they were in the back of their souvineer T shirt shops snoozing.  There was no booming techno music anywhere.  

Haad Rin was quiet, laidback, tranquil, hot, but with a nice breeze. 


Returned to my privtate bungalo.  I think I am the only guest here.




Life is good, but honestly,  I miss FMP week in Haad Rin.  There was so much to look at.



Monday, December 8, 2014

Dec. 7,8,9, 2014. Koh Phangan

Starting to get messages of concern. No worries.  All is well.

Just hanging out in a nice private room on the Sunset Beach side of the island of Koh Phagan, about 5 kilometers from Haad Rin.  Enjoying the AC, resting comfortably, tending to a mild case of intestinal disagreement and a sore right ankle.

Still have the motorbike and am exploring the island.  Have had to fill the tank 3 times and have traveled about 40 miles back and forth, around here and over there on the island.

Not much beach access or beach views, other than at the resorts.  

The Full Moon Party was just as expected.  Thousands of drunk, dancing kids, booming techno music, flashing lights, countless beachside bars, drink stands, etc.  I left the dorm room, walked 150 meters down to the beachside chaos and luckily found a corner table at one of the beachside restaurants around 11:30 PM.  I ordered a beer or two and sipped them until about 1 AM and looked at young bodies.  There was no one my age that I saw, and there were tens of thousands of people.  

I had seen enough by 1:00 AM to understand what was going on everywhere, so went to the dorm room to crash.  It was empty.  When I got up at 7:30 AM, kids were entering the room to sleep.  After I showered, the room was full and smelled of alcohol breath.  I went for a motorbike ride and found my current lodging.









Friday, December 5, 2014

Dec.4 & 5, 2014

Left my lodging at Hip Box 26 at 1:00 PM in a van with 5 other guys, all in their early 20's.  Most had just recently graduated from university.

There were 3 Poles from Krakow and 2 Aussie brothers.  The Poles spoke good English.  I told them how much I enjoyed the Polish hospitality and the weekend I spent in Krakow during two weeks of travel in Poland about 15 years ago.  

From Surat Thani to the ferry boat dock was about a 45 minute van ride.  We stopped halfway and got our ferry tickets to Koh Phangan, an island to the north of Koh Samui, often referred to just as Samui.


I had done some researching on the web about the two islands.  Samui is more of a deluxe resort island, with thousands of hotels.   I saw some places on Samui that were going for over $2500 a night.

I opted to go to Kho Phagan.  It sounded like a more casual, less developed place, with more backpackers and travelers and fewer tourists.  It used to be a hippy hangout years ago - until the younger set took over the place.

I offered to buy everyone a beer when we stopped at the halfway point on the van ride.  As we clinked our beer bottles, I said to the Poles "Nostrovia", the Polish "Cheers".  They were impressed.  No sooner had we cracked the caps off our beers, it was time for the van to leave.  We took the beers with us.  The driver did not say a work about our open beers in the van. For the 45 minute van ride and the 2.5 hour ferry ride, the charge was just under $15.00.

We waited for the ferry for about an hour...it departed late so we drank more beer.



On the boat, the Poles and the Aussies amply returned the beer I bought them and by the time we docked at Kho Phagan, it was dark and we were all toasted. At least I was.


I had not booked a room, so I said I would ride along with the Aussies and see if there were any rooms available nearby, wherever it was that they were headed.  I really had no idea where we were headed.  We negotiated a ride in a tuktuk taxi, agreed on a price, crammed all our bags in and crawled in.  After about a 20 minute ride, we landed in Haad Rin.

Haad Rin is famous for the monthly Full Moon Party.  12 times a year, on the night of the full moon, there are over 20,000+ wild, crazy, half naked, drunk, drugged, twenty somethings staying up all night long and partying on the beach until sunrise.  It is a legendary happening.  The beach is 150 meters from my dorm style room.

I found a hostel, with 16 beds in one room, nice hot showers, clean bathrooms and floors, AC, wifi - for $15.00 a night.  It was the day before the full moon, and there were still plenty of open bunks.  I picked out one on the bottom that was near an electrical outlet.  Private rooms in the hotels and bungalos  skyrocket in price during the Full Moon Party, so think I will just hang here at the dorm and watch the party.  After the Full Moon Party I will book a private room on the beach somewhere.

The full moon is tomorrow night, 12/6!!!!!!  

Only by not reserving a room in advance did I land in the heart of the party zone.

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

12/2/2014. BKK to SRT.

Lazed in the hotel room in the AM,  then sat at the pool and waited for the shuttle.  It was overcast but felt wonderful after Tibet and Nepal.

Took the shuttle bus to BKK at 2 PM.   Worked my way from the domestic terminal down to the international arrival/departure gates.  

I sat and watched the international travelers stream past.

Yesterday, before leaving KTM (on a 777 which boarded hundreds of people headed to BKK), there were some Arabs doing their prayers in the middle of the departure area.  It was jam packed with almost 98% of the seats taken, carry on bags everywhere, and people squeezing by all the time attempting to get to their boarding gate.  

There was a group of 6 men.  One was in the front leading the prayers.  Blankets were laid out.  They started kneeling.   They were wearing white hats, white scarfs, long and droopy white shirts and baggy white pants.   Sandals.   They all had long beards.  I...like others....stared, then I squeezed past the group of six kneeling on the floor.

Another group of six sat near me in the boarding area.  The flight was an hour late leaving KTM to BKK so there was plenty of time to people watch.

It was hard not to stare at the Arabs dressed in white.  I did anyway.  

I looked as western as they looked Arab and with my ponytail, I was probably just as odd to them.  They stared at me.  I stared at them.  There were no women traveling with any of the men.

Ceremoniously, I put on my Bose earbuds.  I cued up "Dark Side of the Moon"  on my iPod and hit play.  I then acted like I was checking critically important text messages from the U.S. Department of State about travel hazard warnings on my i Phone.  There were no messages or email, but I acted like I was interested in the phone anyway.

I thought,  "We live in different worlds.  Us and them".

The Qur'an states that all Muslim males, not only martyrs, will be rewarded with virgins in "Paradise".  Thie concept is grounded in Qur'anic text which describe a sensual Paradise where believing men are rewarded by being wed to virgins with "full grown", "swelling" or "pears-shaped" breasts.

My "Paradise" is salmon fishing on the Columbia River.  I might even catch a salmon now and then.  


I want my ashes spread where I fish, and then I will be in "Paradise".

I thought for a moment.  Could a sane man cope with all those virgins anyway?  

I glanced and then stared at them and listened to "Us and Them" on "Dark Side" and thought about the Arabs and the lyric "After all, we're only ordinary men". 

 
     Us and Them
Us and them
And after all we're only ordinary men.
Me and you
God only knows it's not what we would choose to do.

'Forward' he cried from the rear
And the front rank died.
The general is sat and the lines on the map
Move from side to side.

Black and blue
And who knows which is which and who is who.
Up and down
And in the end it's only round and round. And round.

'Haven't you heard it's a battle of words'
The poster bearer cried.
'Listen son' said the man with the gun,
'There's room for you inside.'

"Well I mean, they're gonna kill ya, so like, if you give 'em a quick sh...short, sharp shock, they don't do it again. Dig it? I mean he got off light, 'cause I coulda given 'Im a thrashin' but I only hit him once. It's only the difference between right and wrong innit? I mean good manners don't cost nothing do they, eh?"

Down and out 
It can't be helped but there's a lot of it about. 
With, without. 
And who'll deny it's what the fighting's all about? 

Out of the way, it's a busy day 
I've got things on my mind. 
For want of the price of tea and a slice 
The old man died.
Songwriters: ROGER WATERS, RICK WRIGHT

The flight today to Surat Thani, 1.25 air hours south of BKK  -  had only only 5% of the seats taken.  In the 70 seats in front of me, 13 were taken.  


Seldom have I been on such an empty flight - except maybe the two flights from PDX east to Kentucky on the frist flight travel day after the nationwide air travel closure following 9/11.  Those were almost empty flights and the airports were empty.

Most vacationers fly directly from BKK to the island of Koh Samui, a dozen miles or so to the east of Surat Thani.   Samui has more lodging than Phuket.  There is a Four Seasons that has rooms that start at $720 a night.  I am sure there places that charge thousands a night.

Arrived in Surat Thani, inquired, and took a local bus for 300 Thai bhat vs a taxi.  It was about 10 miles.  I had tried to make sure the driver knew where I wanted off, but after a while I began to worry.  We had gone too far, I thought.  Then I realized that I was measuring Surat Thani metropolitan traffic on Nepali traveling time......silly me.  

The near empty bus stopped, the driver pointed to me, then down the side road, and said, "Hip Box 26".   It was dark.  I got out of the bus with my backpack and daysack.

It was a long side street that had street lights every 400 feet or so.  I started off backpacking down the dark street, stopping several times for assurances about Hip Box 26.  No one spoke English.  After the third affirmative, I knew it was just a matter of walking an unknown distance further with the backpack and the day pack.   

After 1/2 mile of walking and a final finger point from a guy that that appeared from nowhere behind me on a motorcycle........I arrived.

Hip Box 26 is a modern, clean, Ikea style accomodation facility.  It has a pool, screaming inet and an exercise room.  The room is clean, has fresh paint, tile floors, AC, shower, power plugs, good light, a nice bed, TV.  

The 26 rooms are guest house funished rooms inside shipping containers!!!  I am in unit B17.

Nice room for 390 baht, or $11.86.


Will hang here for another day, explore Surat Thani by bicycle, locate the harbor, the ferry departure locations and times.  

Will head out to the island of Samui - to the east - via ferry on12/4.   Going to "hot pack" my accomodation and see what I find. 





Monday, December 1, 2014

Dec.1, 2014 BKK


All good.  Late departure from KTM on the new Boeing 777-200.  A big plane.  Just over 3 hrs in the air.

At same hotel I used last year upon arrival to BKK.




The Nepali friends, except Shree, this AM before Andy and I departed on the same flight.   Good men, all of them.  Helpful, friendly, fun, honest - every single one of them.  

I could easily return, but there is so much more I need to see before I return to Nepal......like Machu Pichu......New Zealand......Ireland.......etc.

After landing at BKK,  Andy and I parted ways but we will meet again in several weeks in Chiang Rai before I head for a return visit to Luang Prabang in Lao PDR.

Will fly south tomorrow.  Need to book a room for my arrival tomorrow PM.   I may just hot pack it.  

It is hot and humid at 9 PM in BKK.  VERY welcome weather after Tibet and Nepal.

 Next up - 2 weeks of sun, sand, seafood, shorts, sandals.....