101 days of Walkabout - Day 1

Up at 4 AM and off to the airport in the early morning drizzle and darkness.   The rains are starting to begin in the northwest and the fall salmon run is over.  After over 60 days without measurable precipitation and hundreds of hours salmon fishing in the boat on the Columbia,it is now time to experience new places, people, cultures,  sights.

At the check in counter I am often amazed by traveler behavior.  This time it was the Chinese guy with the upright suitcase with the 4 roller wheels.  His bag was half the size of a steamer trunk.  My first thought was "I bet that is heavy".  He struggled mightily to put it on the luggage scale and was promptly told that the bag was 20 pounds over the maximum. What was he thinking?  That you could cram 70 pounds of crap in a giant suitcase and get it on an airplane?  Did he read anything during the ticketing process?  

He was told by the ticket agent that he would need to make two pieces of luggage - that baggage handlers could not lift, move and heft 70 pound luggage.  He was told that he would be given a box to put 20 pounds of stuff in and then be charged a fee of $100.00 for the second 20 pound piece of luggage.  He argued with his wife/girlfriend - there was lots of hand waving, finger pointing, heated words were exchanged.  He had no options - either cough up $100 and make 2 pieces of luggage - or not travel. I chuckled and continued to watch with amusement.   More consultation with the traveling companion and the agent.  Finally he was given two boxes - 2 boxes because he could not fit 20 pounds of crap in one box - and the agent said she would tape them together to make 1 box.  He was handed the two smallish cardboard boxes and several other Chinese travelers in his traveling party grabbed the bag from the scale and the two boxes and then cracked open the trunk - right in front of the ticket counter, thus effectively blocking those behind him (me) from using the ticketing kiosk until the task was completed.   He slowed everything down even more at check in.  The suitcase when folded open took up about 20 square feet of floor space and the two boxes and all the clothes being sorted and laid out to find the heaviest stuff took up another 20 square feet of floor space.  The 4 or 5 Chinese pouring over the mess took up even more floor space and effectively blocked other check in kiosks.   I should have taken a picture.

At the kiosk I inserted my credit card and was prompted for the first 3 letters of my destination.  I typed "ank" and the automated check in kiosk spit out this message "no flights in next 12 hours for B Johnson".  Panic.  Heart pounding increase in blood pressure.  My mind started racing.  Was/is my flight yesterday/tomorrow.? Was there a booking problem?  What time is it?  Flight cancelled?  I took a deep breath and confidently said to myself "must have typed "ank" incorrectly.  Retried the process and was rewarded with my 3 flights  - to Washington DC, Munich and Ankara.  The first of many instances of travelers panic I will endure and hopefully resolve favorably.

Finally was able to get boarding passes and bag check my backpack off to Ankara - it has just 30.5 pounds of stuff for my 101 days of travel in 5 countries.  One pair of shoes for 101 days of travel.  OMG.

 I grabbed my carry on day sack and left for the gate.  

Walkabout time, I thought.  I am ready.

Flight was completely full. Not an enpty seat.  Listened to a little Bob Seger - Beautiful Looser which contains "Kathmandu", some Michael Martin Murphy - Cowboy Songs, NeilYoung - Living With War, Mark Knopfler -  Cal and poof, like that, I was in DC.

An uneventful change of flights and then I was on the Boeing 767-400 to Munich.   Found my seat - an aisle seat on an outside row with two seats.  There are 4 seats in the middle row and another row of two on the other side.  

The flight was delayed about 40 minutes and all the while the seat next to me - the window seat - was vacant.  I thought I might have hit the lottery for the 8.5 hour flight with an empty seat next to me and as it turned out, I did.  The gentleman that had the window seat was about the size of a fullback on a professional football team.  He stopped, checked his seat assignment and said "I was told there are empty seats in the rear of the plane, I am going to find one so we both will have more room".  I replied "Works for me".  And it did.  I was able to fold up the armrest between the window seat and the aisle seat and have plenty of room for the entire flight.  A good omen, me thinks

Had A Small SNAFU

SNAFU #1, just 2 weeks prior to departure.  Was talking with my friend Andy re: meeting and celebrating our October birthdays in Kathmandu - after I leave India - and he mentioned that an entry VISA for India might take a while.  

Went online and surprisingly found out that US citizens cannot get an on arrival VISA at the Delhi airport - or anywhere else for that matter.  If you are from Burma, Viet Nam, Lao, and about a dozen other countries, it is available on entry.  But Great Britain and US are not on the "on entry" list.  As if British or Americans are a high risk entry group of people.  I can understand Pakistani or Bangladeshi citizens being closely screened, but not a US citizen.  Go figure.  Most Americans I have talked with were glad to escape the squallor, poverty and beggars and return to the US anyway.

Spent better part of two hours exploring every available option - fly to San Fran and go to the Indian Consulate, use a rapid VISA online service, etc.  every effort ended with "not enough time" answers.  I just cannot get it done in time.  Sooooo......the flight currently booked from Ankara to Delhi needed to be changed.  Had more problems finding availability of a points flight on Turkish Air through United.  It appears to me.....and to the United agent I talked to for 35 minutes.....that as of 10/13, flights are not offered for points.  Took what was available and depart Ankara 10/13 for Kathmandu.  Will only cost about $35.00 to change the ticket and I will spend a few more days on the Black Sea coast.

If India still draws me, I will persue a visit and a VISA from Nepal before I go to Thailand.

Travel is all about change of plans.  If you are not flexible and roll with the changes and go with the flow, you will go nuts.

Listening to a little music before I leave........

"Katmandu" By Bob Seger

I think I'm goin' to Katmandu,
That's really really where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do

Kkkkkk, Katmandu
I think it's really where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
I'm goin to Katmandu

I got no kick against the west coast,
Warner Brothers are such good hosts
I raise my whiskey glass, and give 'em a toast,
I'm sure they know it's true

I got no rap against the southern states
Every time I've been there it's been great
But now I'm leavin' and I can't be late
And to myself be true

That's where I'm goin to Katmandu
Up to the mountains where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do

I got no quarrel with the midwest
The folks out there have given me their best
I lived there all my life I've been their guest
I sure have loved it too

I'm tired of lookin' at the tv news
I'm tired of drivin' hard and payin' dues
I figure baby I've got nothing to lose
I'm tired of being blue

That's why I'm goin to Katmandu
Up to the mountains where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do

Kkkkkk, Katmandu
Take me baby cause I'm goin' with you
If I ever get out of here
I'm goin to Katmandu

I ain't got nothin' against the east coast
You want some people well they got the most
And New York City's like a friendly ghost
You seem to pass right through

I know I'm gonna miss the USA
I guess I'll miss it every single day
But no one loves me here anyway
I know my plane is due

The one that's goin to Katmandu
Up to the mountains where I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
That's what I'm gonna do

Kkkkkk, Katmandu
Really really really I'm going to
If I ever get out of here
If I ever get out of here
If I ever get out of here
I'm goin to Katmandu

Ooh ooh ooh, ooh yeah

Katmandu
Katmandu
Katmandu
Katmandu
Katmandu
Katmandu

Well, followers, my next walkabout departure approaches. 

Will head eastward around the globe this time.  I have always wanted to say that I made it completely around the world, and this trip will get that item off the bucket list.  

Depart PDX to Washington DC, then across the lake to Munich.  Have a short layover then off to Ankara, in central Turkey. 

Will spend 13 days in Turkey, with a current destination - via train - of Samsun, on the Black Sea coast.

After about 13 days in Turkey, will be heading over to Nepal.

Watched the Super Bowl in Siem Reap/ At 9 in the AM.

Street outside my Guest house on the river.

Another US Bombie victim.....both hands, one foot....... Lao was not the only place we bombed.....

I bought a book from him....so sad is the human impact of the US bombing campaigns.......but then Pol Pot killed over 25% of all Cambodians in his cleansing operation in 1975 after the war was over.  Where were we then??

All of Siem Reap was sent to the countryside to work on collectives.  All intellectuals and poeple of education and wealth were killed....over a million.....

Got to the bar on Pub Street about halftime......lots of Americans......not much rooting and hollering as the game was almost over by then.......had coffee, a bacon n egg sandwich and witnessed the one sided action......

Then off to the market...again....

Siem Reap is a nice place - safe, friendly and lots to see and do.

Will leave SE Asia in 34 hours....

Beacon Rock

Friday, 3/7,  2014

Out to play on a beautiful day.  Climbed to the top, ate lunch, enjoyed the views.  Met some interesting people:  Char, who climbs the rock several days a week in around 17 minutes.  The Fish and Game employee from Anchorage that is planning on retiring.  He said the Gorge was so developed compared to Alaska.  No kidding??


Beacon Rock State Park is a state park of Washington, USA, in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, on State Route 14 about 35 miles (56 km) east of Vancouver, Washington.

The park takes its name from Beacon Rock, an 848-foot (258 m) monolith next to the Columbia River. The 5,100 acres (2,100 ha) park includes 4,482 acres (1,814 ha) of forested uplands across the highway from Beacon Rock, over 9.5 miles (15.3 km) of hiking trails, and 9,500 feet (2,900 m) of freshwater shoreline.  Hardy Falls and Rodney Falls are scenic highlights along the trail to the summit of 2,445-foot (745 m) Hamilton Mountain, which has a view of Bonneville Dam and points east. 

On October 31, 1805, the Lewis and Clark Expedition arrived here and first measured tides on the river, indicating that they were nearing the ocean.From Wikipedia.  

Hike Description

Beacon Rock is one of the most prominent and distinctive geological features in the Columbia River Gorge, an 848-foot landmark that was once the core of a volcano — what remains is what was not washed away by the massive force of ice-age flooding. It is one of the tallest monoliths (singular piece of rock) in North America, along with California's El Capitan, Georgia's Stone Mountain, and Wyoming's Devils Tower.

The Beacon Rock Trail was built by Henry Biddle and Charles Johnson between 1915 and 1918. That makes it one of the oldest trails in our area. At the time, Biddle owned the rock, so he had complete latitude to blast and bridge his way to the top. Several trailside plaques commemorate his achievement.

Beacon Rock was originally named by Lewis & Clark on the Voyage of Discovery in 1805, but in later years was more commonly known as Castle Rock. The original name was restored in 1916 by the U.S. Board of Geographic Names, at Biddle's request. Before Biddle purchased the rock and began trail construction, it had been slated for demolition — the rubble could have been used for either railroad construction or a new jetty at the mouth of the Columbia. Biddle's estate offered the rock and surrounding acreage to the state of Washington for $1, provided it be retained as a public park — a gift Washington initially declined until the state of Oregon indicated that it would be willing to maintain a state park on the north banks of the Columbia. Washington paid the fee in 1935, and the park now comprises 4,650 acres with nearly two miles of freshwater shoreline.

Today's trail follows Biddle's original alignment and it could hardly do anything else. After a short stroll through the woods, the trail hits the rock with a vengeance. It's not too steep and most of the surface has been paved over the decades at one time or another. You'll walk on rock, small patches of cement paving, concrete platform bridges and wooden bridges. The surface is good for normal athletic shoes. The entire trail is a near-continuous series of switchbacks, many of them less than 20 feet long and the trail loops over itself at least twice. I counted 52 switchbacks, while one of my sons counted 54 and the other came up with 49. That says less bad about our educational system than it does good about the distracting views. The trail is completely lined by handrails and is safe for all but the tiniest walkers.

Most of the trail is up the open, west side of the rock, providing views down the river of Angel's Rest and Cape Horn. With little shade or water, this part of the trail can be really hot in the summertime. Beacon Rock actually has two summits and the trail works around the south one and proceeds up the east side toward the higher, north summit. The trail is forested here, but the terrain is still rocky enough to provide great views of Hamilton Mountain and the river toward Bonneville Dam. At the summit, a few quite large stairs lead to the summit pinnacle. Here, trees block a bit of the view, but it's certainly worth seeing.

The wind is usually howling on one side of the rock and dead calm on the other side, creating a dramatic difference in the perceived temperature. You'll need a jacket most days, but you'll carry it a lot.

Source: http://www.portlandhikersfieldguide.org/wiki/Beacon_Rock_Hike

I often reread the journals of Lewis and Clark regarding places I visit or plan to visit.  

I have copied and pasted the portion of the Journal that is about Beacon Rock and the vicinity.  I highlighted several items: 

Oddly, I noticed an interpretive sign at the base of the rock that said L&C and the Corps passed here on 10/31/1805.  I came home and read the Journals for 10/31  and found that the Corps, to a man, were describing the area below Celilo Falls and the Dalles. The Corps started mentioning Beacon Rock and measuring tidal influence on 11/2, not 10/31.   There is also a discrepancy in the dates offered by Wiki.   Either way, they were here either 10/31 or 11/2, 1805.  It only depends on who you believe - - Wiki or the Journals. 

From the journals:

[Clark] November 2nd Saturday 1805  [9]

 

       Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly    the danger appearing too great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched all the men who could not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below, I also walked to the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed untill everry articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe.    here we brackfast and took a Meridn.    altitude 59° 45' 45"    about the time we were Setting out 7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass neetly bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a large canoe.    passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposite the lower point of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses on the Stard. Bank,  [10] a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry Island, which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on the Stard. Side passed a village ofnine houses,  [11] which is Situated between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those above; here the river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more extensive and thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each Side, with Pine, Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder.    at 17 miles passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet high and 80 feet Diamuter,  [12] proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of about 2 miles wide, in which the tide has its effect as high as the Beaten rock or the Last rapids at Strawberry Island,—    Saw great numbers of waterfowl of Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey brants,  [13] ducks of various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14 brant Joseph Fields 3 & Collins one.    we encamped under a high projecting rock on the Lard. Side,  [14] here the mountains leave the river on each Side, which from the great Shute to this place is high and rugid; thickly Covered with timber principalley of the Pine Species. The bottoms below appear extensive and thickly Covered with wood.    river here about 2½ miles wide. Seven Indians in a Canoe on their way down to trade with the nativs below, encamp with us, those we left at the portage passed us this evening and proceeded on down    The ebb tide rose here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here much higher—    we made 29 miles to day from the Great Shute—

11. Identified on Atlas map 79 as the "Wah-clallah Tribe of Shahala Nation," probably the same people also referred to as the Watlalas, an Upper Chinookan-language people. The term Shahala is from Chinookan áx̣l(a), "upriver, above," and áx̣latk, "those upriver." These people, who resided along the "Cascades of the Columbia," are often labeled under the general name of Cascades Indians. Like many Chinookan-speaking peoples, this group was greatly reduced by disease later in the nineteenth century, with most of the survivors eventually joining the Wascoes on the Warm Springs Reservation or the Wishrams on the Yakima Reservation. Hodge 2:922; Spier, 21, 24; Berreman, 18–19; Hajda, 67, 119–20. The village of nine houses was in Skamania County, in the vicinity of present Skamania. Spier & Sapir, 167–68, vaguely place several villages of the Cascades Indians in this area. The village observed by Lewis and Clark may correspond with a known archaeological site, where test excavations encountered evidence of late prehistoric occupation. Warren (RSWA), 10–11. Prehistoric occupation in the Cascades area has a limited time depth, as all sites investigated to date are situated on landforms created as a result of the Bonneville landslide around 800 years ago. Minor, Toepel, & Beckham; Minor (PH). (Return to text.)

12. "Phoca" or "Seal rock" on Atlas map 79. "Phoca" is Greek for "seal." Lewis and Clark's name has been restored to this formation, rising about thirty feet in the Columbia River. The name is for the harbor seal, Phoca vitulina richardii. See October 23, 1805. The rocks in this area are basalts of the middle Miocene Yakima Basalt Subgroup of the Columbia River Basalt Group. (Return to text.)

Phoenix 2/27 to 3/2 Off to NASCAR at Avondale

The Youth Hostel

My '"room" at the hostel. An old gutted camper with a cabover bed.  Perfect.  Quiet, outside, private, only $15. 00.  The people that I met at the hostel were so interesting:

• The Ranger with 3 purple Hearts that now runs a dance school with his lovely wife from Estonia.  
• Mark, who completed the marathon on Saturday..  He once weighed 385 pounds.
• The young lady that had traveled into 135 countries and territories.  She was on a heavy duty mission to see the world.   I bet she just passed through many countries and did not stay long in any one place.
• Satoshi Kaneko, from Japan, who described me the way I desire people to see me.  It was such a compliment.  He wanted my picture for his portraits webpage.

The NASCAR track at Avondale.

In the hostel kitchen.  

The Japanese photographer that took my picture.  With 4x5 film.  

Gus, the 55 year old, unmarried, Corp Environmental and Safety Manager that I sat next to  on the flight home.  We could talk the same language.  And did.  For 5.5 hours straight.