Oct. 8, 2014 Photos Non Edibles

Oct. 9, 2014. Along The Black Sea Coast

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Extending from just east of İstanbul to the frontier with Georgia, the Black Sea region is a real anomaly, guaranteed to smash any stereotypes you may hold about Turkey. 

The combination of damp northerly and westerly winds, confronting an almost uninterrupted wall of mountains south of the shore, has created a relentlessly rainy and riotously green realm. It’s not unlike the northwest coasts of North America or Spain. The peaks force the clouds to disgorge themselves on the seaward side of the watershed, leaving central Anatolia beyond the passes in a permanent rain shadow. With the short summer season ensuring the area sees few package tourists or backpackers, most foreign visitors are either archeology groups or trekkers.

That said, when the semi-tropical heat sets in, in July and August, you’ll certainly want to swim. The sea here has its own peculiarities, just like the weather. Fed huge volumes of fresh water by the Don, Dnieper and Danube rivers to the north, it’s diminished not by evaporation but by strong currents through the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles. The resulting upper layer is of such low salinity that you could almost drink it, were it not for the pollution.

Starting north of Ankara as mere humps, the coastal ranges attain world-class grandeur by the time they reach the Georgian border. Until recently they made land access all but impossible, and provided refuge for a complex quilt of tribes and ethnic subgroups that still exist among the Hemşin valleys and the Kaçkar mountains. Even so, travelling largely consists of soaking up the atmosphere, with little need to worry about missing important sights. Apart from the old mercantile towns of Ünye and Giresun, there are no major attractions outside the ancient port city of Trabzon (Trebizond) with its nearby monastery of Sumela.

Although the region’s characterless central portion is dominated by the hulking port of Samsun, the coast west of the strikingly sited town of Sinop, towards the Byzantine/Genoese harbour of Amasra, is filled with attractive villages and deserted beaches. The lack of bus and dolmuş links spares the area from mass tourism.

Brief history

The ancient Greeks ventured onto the Black Sea, or as they called it, the Pontos Euxine, at the start of the first millennium BC. They fought with the local “barbarians” and occasionally, as in the semi-legendary tale of Jason and the Argonauts, got the better of them. Between the seventh and fourth centuries BC, the Aegean cities founded numerous colonies. These became the ancestors of virtually every modern Black Sea town, whose names as often as not are Turkifications of their ancient monikers. The region made its first brief appearance on the world stage when a local Pontic king, Mithridates IV Eupator, came close to expelling the Romans from Anatolia.

With the arrival of Christianity, relations between natives and imperial overlords hardly changed at all. Only the Byzantine urban centres by the sea became thoroughly Hellenized. The Byzantine defeat at Manzikert in 1071 (see The arrival of the Turks) initially meant little to the Black Sea, safe behind its wall of mountains; the fall of Constantinople to the Fourth Crusade in 1204 had far greater immediate effects, prompting the Black Sea’s second spell of historical prominence. For two and a half cultured (and ultimately decadent) centuries, the empire-in-exile of the Komnenos dynasty, centred on Trebizond (today’s Trabzon), exercised influence grossly disproportionate to its size.

After Manzikert, Turkish chieftains had begun to encroach on the coast, especially at the gap in the barrier ranges near Sinop and Samsun. The Trapezuntine dynasty even concluded alliances with them, doubtless to act as a counter to the power of the Genoese and Venetians who also set up shop hereabouts. Most of this factionalism came to an end under the Ottomans, though even they entrusted semi-autonomous administration of the Pontic foothills to feudal derebeys (“valley lords”) until early in the nineteenth century.

The equilibrium was upset when the Black Sea area entered the history books for the third time, as a theatre of war. Imperial Turkey and Russia clashed four times between 1828 and 1915, and the Tsarist regime gave aid and comfort to various regional separatist movements after 1877. Between 1918 and 1922, Greeks attempting to create a Pontic state fought with guerrillas loyal to Atatürk’s Nationalists. Following the victory of the Republic, the Greek merchant class was expelled, and the Black Sea experienced temporary economic disarray, verging on famine during the 1930s.

Most of the credit for the last few decades of recovery must go to the hamsis, as the locals are nicknamed (after the Black Sea anchovy formerly caught here in large numbers during winter). Enterprising, voluble and occasionally scandalous, they have set up mafias in the shipping, property and construction industries throughout the country, much of which is funded by industrious hamsis overseas. The most visible sign of the post-Soviet era, since Turkey’s eastern border opened up in the early 1990s, is a new coastal road and a further bout of urbanization.

The Black Sea region looks set to receive a further boost, with the state-run Turkish Petroleum Corporation joining with Shell in 2011 to develop vast beds of oil and gas reserves that apparently lie in waiting offshore.

Oct. 9, 2014 Trabzon to Sinop by Bus

From the web:

Medieval Sinop is a walled city perched on a promontory overlooking the dark, chill waters of the Black Sea.

Founded by colonists from the Aegean port of Miletus in the 800s BC, Sinop (pop. 38,000) became a major port because of its fine natural harbor. Today it's still a port, and the capital of the province of the same name.

Besides its medieval city walls, Sinop offers the Alaettin Mosque (1267) and its medrese (seminary); the ruined Balatlar Kilisesi, a Roman temple converted into a Byzantine church; and the Cezayirli Ali Pasha Mosque (1297).

A few remains of an ancient Temple of Serapis stand beside the Sinop Museum.

On November 30, 1853, the Imperial Russian Navy crossed the Black Sea to Sinop, attacked the Ottoman fleet which was in port there, and utterly destroyed it. The Russian bombardment went on long past when it was clear the Ottomans were defeated, killing many Ottoman sailors who were no longer combatants.

The "massacre of Sinope" was one of the events precipitating the Crimean War (1853-1854) in which Great Britain and France fought with the Ottoman Empire against the Russian Empire.

By the harbor in Sinop you'll see a small monument built to commemorate the deaths of the Ottoman sailors, paid for with the coins collected from the pockets of the fallen.

Sinop has a few beaches, though the Black Sea water is chilly except on the hottest days.

Diogenes (c. 412-323 BC), the Cynic philosopher who carried around a lantern "looking for a good man" (and not finding one), was born in Sinop. He later moved to Athens, where he sought to live the simplest life possible, even throwing away his only possession—his drinking cup—when he realized he could drink from his cupped hands.

Alexander the Great met the famous philosopher and wanted to reward him:

"What can I do for you?" the emperor asked.

"Stand aside. You're blocking my sunlight," Diogenes replied.

Sinope, daughter of the river god Asopus, outwitted Zeus. He wanted to marry her, and promised she could have "anything she wanted." She requested eternal virginity, and Zeus, outwitted, allowed her to enjoy it here on this promontory—or so the legend says—giving the town its name.

—by Tom Brosnahan

Oct. 8, 2014 Trabzon Edibles Photos

Oct. 8, 2014 Trabzon. Hustle and Hospitality.

"Hi, where you going?  You speak English?"

I was approached by two men upon my entry to the bus station this afternoon around 4:30 PM, after walking around Trabzon for 4 hours.

I realized that they were short stopping me and were attempting to sell me an inflated price bus ticket, so I replied with a serous, straight face  "To my pansiyon."  It was the truth.  I was taking the short cut from where the van dropped me off over to my pansiyon (hotel) about 300 yards away.

He was taken aback.  He made a quizzical face and said "Ohh."  

Game over.   

But I still felt like playing.

So I said,  "But tomorrow I am going to Sinop."  Instantly, the game was back on.  

"We get you ticket.  Go with my friend to ticket counter. He get ticket to Sinop for you."  I asked how much the price would be for a ticket to Sinop.

He opened up his wallet, pulled out a bunch of bills, then counted bills in a dramatic fashion until he had a wad of lira in his hand, then he counted out 55 lira in English to me.

I said "The bus ticket to Siinop should only be 30 lira."  

As soon as his eyes got big, I turned quickly and walked away towards my hotel.  After walking 15 feet I smiled and thought of a quote from J. R. R. Tolkien:

"Not all those who wander are lost." 

Wandering around town today I thought about yesterday's blog and just had to take a picture and put in today's blog.  

Not women in full black burkas, but you should get the point if you look closely and read yesterday's blog.

In town, I passed two men sitting in a stall and making brooms by hand.

I watched intently.  Their hand dexterity was amazing.  From my years in Occupational Safety and Health, my first thought was "carpal tunnel syndrome."  

Two men were also sitting and watching and I gestured if it was OK to take a picture.  One said "One picture, one Euro."  He was thinking I was European, maybe a German.

"I have no Euros!" I replied.  "And that is expensive for just one picture."  After a short banter I was graciously invited to sit down. He insisted that I talk and have tea with him.

He was 28, single and both his father and grandfather had run the operation making brooms.  They cost 10 lira.  Tea was delivered and I offered to pay for it, but he was insistent that I was his guest.  We talked about all the pretty women in Trabzon and life as single men.

He asked if I had children, if I was traveling alone, where I was from, where in Turkey I have been, how long in Trabzon, where I was going next.  

These are the moments when I say "This is why I travel."

Oct. 8, 2014

Traveling on the road for 3 1/2 months with only 30 pounds of stuff in a backpack does have its limitations.   Like 1 pair of shoes and a pair of sandals.  3 shirts and two pair of pants.

At times you must stay up all night on a flight or when riding the bus -  or you must go for a day or two without taking a hot shower - and you might need a shave.  As I am letting my hair grow to a full ponytail on this trip, the hair on the sides of my head at times goes wild, and it looks like I just left Medusa's Hair Salon.  So I use hair gel and slick everything down so it looks like I just left the shower.

I decided to while away the morning, relax, listen to some music and let the sun rise before heading out.   

I began reflecting on my travels so far.  8 days into my journey, I know that I am unable hide that I am a Westerner.  I have long hair and a ponytail.  I am overweight.  I dress like a Westerner.  I wear sunglasses.  I carry a daypack.  I wear a pair of low cut hiking shoes.

Most Turks- especially the men - would fit into the fabric of the US without a second glance, but then the diversity of the US is one of the things that makes it such a special place to live.  In the US we learn to accept - and are not the least bit surprised -  by seeing daily every imaginable race, nationality,  body shape, clothing style, visible religious preference and the passions that go with along with that diversity.  

I began to feel like the frumpy, overweight, longhaired Westerner traveling with 30 pounds of stuff in a backpack that I am. 

"C'est la vie" I thought.

I walked down the hall and got a cup of hot water and a packet of instant mocha and while walking back to my room I noticed that there was an ironing board and and iron in the hallway.  "That fits" I thought.  Everyone always looks together, smartly dressed and clean.  Put it in the hallway and everyone can use it.  

So I thought "I should iron my frumpy shirt and wrinkled pants."

Then, while out today, I will look like an overweight, long haired Westerner with sunglasses, carryingh a daysack that is wearing a pair of ironed pants and shirt!!

Oct. 7, 2014. Sumela, Trabzon City Center

Walked a block and a half to the bus station in this city of 750,000 people and caught the 10:00 AM bus to Sumela Monestry, an hour bus ride.  The monestry dates back to 375 AD and is 1000 feet above the valley floor.  An unbelievable amount of stonework in an unbelievably inacessibe location,  it was restored/added to in the 6th century and in the 13 th century.  But then, there are many, many unbelievable stone buildings and monuments in the world.

Returned to town and instead of returning to the bus station, I stayed on the bus to the city center.  Stopped on the city center square and had a beef and eggplant kabob for 15 lira and sat and watched people pass over a leisurely dinner, much like the Zocolo in Oaxaca.  Relaxing, enjoyable, comfortable.  I then walked around the city center for several hours.

The city square reminded me of city centers in Europe or Mexico.  Lots of people, men sitting on benches watching women walk past and the world go by.  There was a constant stream of people.

They stare at me, but not a hard stare.  Children hard stare. Chinese hard stare.   I smile and wave "hi" to them and they turn away.

Trabzon city center feels European, Western, Muslim.  I saw a woman in a full black burka - with only her eyes and hands showing - walking and holding hands with a man wearing deck shoes or tennis shoes, shorts and a western theme T shirt.   She had an expensive zoom lens digital camera and took several pictures of him.  A city of contrasts.

While traveling in Thailand I blogged that I wished I was a woman because there were so many beautiful purses - especially the silk ones.  Here, in Trabzon, I got the same feeling about head scarves.  They are absolutely beautiful and a wonderful compliment to a woman's wardrobe.  They are stunning in their diversity, color and patterns.   Trabzon feels more Muslim than Ankara.

Many very modern jewlery, clothing and food shops.  Nuts, baclava, pastries, chocolate, bread, etc.    Many of the shops look exactly like something you would see in the mall in the US.  Western wedding dress shops, underwear, electronics, kitchen appliances - just like in the US.  

I mumbled to my self when I saw a woman in a burka looking at sexy bras and lingerie.  "Is that what they are wearing under that black burka?"  Pink, blue, plain white with lots of frill or maybe that tiger stripe?  I doubt I will look at a woman in a burka the same again.

Turkey is not a 3rd nation country.  Roads are very good, housing and sanitation appear quite developed and it is extremely clean.  There are, however, many half finished multistory apartment buildings.  Thousands of them.  Everyone has cell phones.  Most vehicles are new.  You do not see beaten up, old vehicles like you often see in....say the deep south of the US.

While in Ankara I was asked by Hedar about my car.  He said that in Turkey there is a huge tax on high performance, low MPG vehicles with big engines.  He said a 370Z would be about 300,00 lira.  So what you see are Toyotas, Hyundais - small, fuel efficient cars.

Many men my age are strikingly handsome, tall, thin, fit and well dressed in very nice suits and ties, or nice tailored jackets and pants, with immaculate closely cropped haircuts. Add an ear bud and a pair of sunglasses (which very, very few people wear) and many older men would look like Secret Service agents.  There is money here, somewhere.

There are few beggars.  The ones you see are truely needy.   Rarely do you ever see a piece of trash or a cigarette butt anywhere - and most of the men smoke cigarettes.

Modern, clean, safe and just a bit under prices in the US.  There are not many bargains to be had here.  There is a feeling of zest for life.  A stark contrast to old town Ankara near the castle on the hilltop which felt poor - but not really poor like Jamica,, rural Lao, Cambodia or Myanmar.

Make no doubt about it, cars have the right of way in Turkey and they never, ever, hesitate to let you know that that they know it.  I was almost run over by a car that advanced 3 feet in log jam traffic - as if the guy would get to his destination 0..5 seconds faster - in traffic that was bumper to bumper for 3 blocks.  Do not challenge any vehicle at any time, for any reason.  Just dart across the road like a cat. I look for older women crossing or people with children to cross with.  A much safer bet than crossing alone.

After wandering around and taking pics - I have probably taken over 1000 so far - I caught a van taxi back to the hotel for 1.75 lira.  Now that I have the basics of the transportation system down and I am sleeping  about as inexpensively as any traveler in Trabzon, I think I will stay one more day and head back to the city center and explore the castle that - with its trapizodial shape - gave Trabzon its name.  Its walls were first documented in 500 BC.

Have been into several mosques.  When I heard call to prayer around 4 PM today I was passing a mosque.  I took off my shoes and ducked in to watch and take some pics.  The ritual is quite mesmerizing.

All is good.  This is a safe place - feels many times safer than......say Costa Rica or many places in Mexico  - or many places in the US for that matter.  But I still have a whistle around my neck or in my jacket pocket.

People are friendly, helpful.  It helps to show them that you are friendly also and that you are willing to smile and laugh at yourself.  

God is great, beer is good, people are crazy.