Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Oct. 14, 2014. In the Heart of Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Last edited 8 days ago by an anonymous user

Bhaktapur Durbar Square


Bhaktapur Durbar Square 2014

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the plaza in front of the royal palace of the old BhaktapurKingdom, 1400m above sea level.[1] It is one of three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The Bhaktapur Durbar Square is located in the current town of Bhaktapur,also known as Bhadgoan,[1] which lies 13 km east of Kathmandu. While the complex consists of at least four distinct squares (Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Dattatreya Square and Pottery Square),[2] the whole area is informally known as the Bhakapur Durbar Square and is a highly visited site in the Kathmandu Valley.

Major attractionsEdit

Durbar Area
  • 55 Window Palace: Built in the 15th century, the 55 Window Palace is the dominating architectural structure in the square.[3]
  • Golden Gate: The main entrance to the palace, the golden gate is a masterpiece of artwork.[3]
  • Lion's Gate: The magnificent and beautiful gate was produced from artisans whose hands were cut off after finishing touch to them by the envious Bhadgoun king so that no more of such masterpiece would be produced again.[3]
  • Mini Pashupati Temple: The holy god Shiva temple, the mini pashupati, is believed to be built right in front of the palace after a Bhadgoan king dreamed of it.[3]
  • Vatsala Temple: The Vatsala temple is known for its dog-barking bell which is believed to producee a death knell when it is rung.[3]
  • Nyatapola Temple: Nyatapola in Newari language means five storees — the symbolic of five basic elements. This is the highest pagoda of Nepal ever built with such architectural perfection and artistic beauty.[3]
  • Bhairava Nath Temple: The Bhairava Nath temple is dedicated to the god of terror and death: Bhairava.[3]

TemplesEdit

Erotic elephants temple — On the left just before the entrance way to the square is a hiti (water tank). A few steps before that but on the other side of the road, just 100m before the entrance way, is a tiny double-roofed Shiva-Parvati temple with some erotic carvings on its struts. One of these shows a pair of copulating elephants, in the missionary position: Kisi (elephant) Kamasutra.[4]

Ugrachandi and Ugrabhairab — Near the main gate at the west end, one can admire a pair of multiple-armed statues of the terrible god Ugrabhairab and his counterpart Ugrachandi, the fearsome manifestation of Shiva’s consort Parvati. The statues date back to 1701 A.D. and it is said that the unfortunate sculptor had his hands cut off afterwards, to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces. Ugrachandi has eighteen arms holding weapons, and she is in the position of casually killing a (buffalo) demon. Bhairab has twelve arms and both god and goddess are garlanded with necklaces of human heads.[5]

Rameshwor Temple — The first temple one notices on the right of the gate is Rameshwor, in front of Gopi Nath Temple which is a Gum Baja style. It is an open shrine with four pillars and it is dedicated to Shiva. The name Rameshwor comes from that it was Ram as an incarnation of Vishnu who had the original temple of Mahadev built at Rameshwar Temple in South India.[6]

Badrinath Temple — A small temple west of the Gopi Nath Temple locally known as Badri Narayan is dedicated to Vishnu and Narayan.[7]

Gopi Nath Temple — Two roofed pagoda style is the Gopi Nath Temple, attached to Rameshwar Temple that houses the three deities Balaram, Subhadra and Krishna. It is difficult to see the deities as the door remains mostly closed. The temple is also known as Jagannath, which is another from taken by Vishnu. Dwarika, also known as the Krishna Temple, houses three deities, left to right: Satyabhama, Krishna and Radha. Their images are carved in stone. In the month of Mangsir (November/December), the deities are placed in a palanquin and taken around the city.[8]

Kedarnath Temple — The terracotta made Shikara style temple is the Kedarnath (Shiva) Temple.[9]

Hanuman Statue — The entrance to the National Art Gallery is flanked by figure of Hanuman, the monkey god, who appears in Tantric form as the four armed Hanuman Bhairab. Hanuman is worshiped for strength and the devotion.[10]

Vatsala Devi Temple — Directly in front of the palace and beside the king’s statue and next to the Taleju Bell is the Vatsala Devi Temple. This Shikhara style temple is completely constructed in sandstone and is built upon a three stage plinth, and has similarities to the Krishna temple of Patan. It is dedicated to Vatsala Devi, a form of the goddess Durga. The temple was originally built by King Jitamitra Malla in 1696 A.D. The structure that can be seen today, however, is reconstructed by King Bhupatindra Malla and dates back to the late 17th or early 18th century. Behind the temple is a water source called Dhunge Dhara and next to it stands the Chayslin Mandap.[11]

LayoutEdit

Bhaktapur Durbar Square in 2004

The Durbar Square proper houses the 55-window Palace which was constructed by King Jitamitra Malla and was home to royalty until 1769. It is now a national gallery. Close by is the Golden Gate which leads into Mulchok Court which is home to the Taleju Temple. This temple, like others in the main towns of the Kathmandu Valley, is dedicated to the goddess Taleju Bhawani and includes shrines to both the Taleju Bhawani and Kumari. Entrance to the temple is restricted to Hindus and the living goddess strictly cannot be photographed.

The Durbar square is surrounded by spectacular architecture and vividly showcases the skills of the Newari artists and craftsmen over several centuries. The royal palace was originally situated at Dattaraya square and was only later moved to the Durbar square location.

HistoryEdit

The Durbar square at Bhaktapur was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1934 and hence appears more spacious than the others, in Kathmandu and Patan.[12]

Originally, there were 99 courtyards attached to this place, but now only 6 remain. Before the earthquake, there were 3 separate groups of temples. Currently, the square is surrounded by buildings that survived the quake.[12]

See alsoEdit

ReferencesEdit

  1. nepalandbeyond
  2. Cultural History of Nepal By Bhadra Ratha Bajracharya, Shri Ram Sharma, Shiri Ram Bakshi
  3. aghtrekking
  4. bhaktapur tourism development
  5. bhaktapur tourism development
  6. bhaktapur tourism development
  7. bhaktapur tourism development
  8. bhaktapur tourism development
  9. bhaktapur tourism development
  10. bhaktapur tourism development
  11. bhaktapur tourism development
  12. Nepal Handbook by Tom Woodhatch

External linksEdit

Oct. 14, 2014. Baktapur, Nepal

Arrived Kathmandu after a minor flight delay on landing due to weather - remnants of a typhoon from India.  Cleared customs, immigration, got my bags, and met my driver that took me to the guest house in Baktapur Square.

I am about 2 blocks from the square.  Have not explored anything.  Slept in the afternoon after back to back all nighters - one on the bus from Sinop to Ankara 


and last night on the flight from Istanbul to Kathmandu.  

Two nights without a bed was hard on this old man.

Will start taking pictures tomorrow.  Kathmandu reminds me of the interior of Mexico.  Feels similar to Oaxaca on the drive from airport.  Poor, undeveloped, third nation status, etc.


From Wiki:


Bhaktapur (Nepaliभक्तपुर Bhaktapur ), literally translates to Place of devotees. It is redeemed as the 'cultural gem'. Also known as Bhadgaon or Khwopa (Nepal Bhasaख्वप Khwopa), it is an ancient Newar city in the east corner of the Kathmandu ValleyNepal, about eight miles from the capital city, Kathmandu. It is located in Bhaktapur District in the Bagmati Zone.

Bhaktapur was the largest of the three Newa kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley, and was the capital of Nepal during the great "Malla "Kingdom until the second half of the 15th century. Today it is the third largest city in the Kathmandu Valley, with a population of more than 300,000, of which the vast majority are still Newars. Historically more isolated than the other two kingdoms, Kathmandu and Patan, Bhaktapur has a distinctly different form of the Nepal Bhasa .

Bhaktapur has the best preserved palace courtyards and old city center in Nepal, and is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for its rich culture, temples, and wood, metal and stone artworks. This is supported by the restoration and preservation efforts of German-funded Bhaktapur Development Project (BDP).

The city is famous for special type of curd called "Ju Ju (king) dhau(curd). It is experienced by the curd makers that the taste of curd prepared in this location cannot be found elsewhere all over Nepal.



Sunday, October 12, 2014

Oct. 12, 2014. Sinop Last Day

Spent the AM sleeping in, sorting my bags, throwing away old maps, boarding passes, notes, business cards, etc.  Checked out at 2, stored my backpack at the front desk and set off for town.

I have been to all the sights in Sinop in the tourist brochure, so I guess I have seen Sinop.  It was clean, safe, very American friendly and easy to negotiate city.  Busses were easy, the Antiq Otel (they had dozens of old pieces of Roman colums, marble carvings, headstones and even their own small musuem on site) staff were wonderful, weather was about perfect, even if it did rain a little this afternoon.  Was able to experienced a full moon on the Black Sea, a windy day, a sunny day and a rainy day.  Rarely needed a jacket.

Set off by bus 


for the Mosque and the Medrassa, both dating back to around 1000 AD.  


Went into the Mosque and watched the afternoon prayers and made a video.



The old Madrassa (school) was now a bunch of little shops.  Bought a little -  3 inch long - ship in a bottle as my souvineer of Sinop.  The ship in a bottle along with the memory of riding in a Turkish Police car and about 1000 photos will return to Portland.

Would really like to see Istanbul - everyone I spoke with said to go there.  Maybe a walkabout someday south from Istanbul along the Aegean down to the Mediterean then east - topping long before Syria, for obvious reasons - someday.

After walking about town, it was time to head back to the hotel.  It started to rain - but hey - I live in Portland - it was a nice end touch in the 12 day journey in Turkey.

Thought I would return to the place in town where I ate yesterday and try some of the beef tips over rice that I tasted yesterday, but they were closed.  Found a little place that was making sandwiches.


Bought a grilled chicken, pepper, onion and tomato sandwich in a big hogie bread, some chips and a liter of Coke for 10 lira, or $4.40.  There were two men customers in the store, the owner and the cook.  They all gave me thumbs up when I told them I was America.  Sinop likes Americans, primarily the older generation, I was told, because of the good impression left by the 1500 soldiers stationed at the Army base that closed about 20 years ago.


Had a nice walk in a misty rain back to the hotel.  Quaffed two beers I bought at a store - the store owner recognized me from yesterday's beer purchase and gave me a thumbs up "American!!" And a smile.

Sat in the back porch of the hotel and listened to the Black Sea crash on shore, took a few more umbrella pics and sorted and organized gear.


The hotel staff called a taxi and was off to the bus station.  The driver spoke some English and said "America good." And insisted that the fare be 20 lira even though the fare meter said 23.5 lira and insisted that he carry my bag into the bus station.  It will be a wonderful memory of Sinop, one of the three harbors on the Black Sea.......along with July and August.