Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Nov. 11, 2014. Pics upload.


Now that I am back online, I thought I would upload a few pics....









Hat shopping.

Debating Monks

Potala Palace, Lhasa.  It is surrounded by modern China.

Modern China in Lhasa.

The crew.

Looks alot like Nevada, but at 12,500 feet base elevation.



Down a high pass on 11/8 on the way to Lhasa.

Everest Base Camp, on the Tibet side.  5200 meters or 17,060 feet elevation.  Taking a deep breath does not help much when going uphill.  Mt. Everest in rear.

Hat shopping.....again.  I bought it for 100 Yuan, after starting to bargain at 350 Yuan.  (6.1 Yuan/$)

Namaste.









Nov. 11, 2014. Back in Bhaktapour

All good.  Back from Tibet and Communist China and in my room in Bhaktapour.  

Finally resolved the broken blog link once I was able to access Google from Nepal.  Google does not function in China.

More posts on the way....but it seems all the daily notes I posted as drafts (since Google's blogger app does not function in China) are gone.  It may take me a few days to recreate, as best as I can, from numerous daily handwritten notes, about the journey of the last week - from traversing the landslide (it scared the shit out of me) to the Shit Hole Hotel, to the Everest Base Camp and finally my impressions of Lhasa.  Stay tuned...lots of stories and pics pending.

Everest Base Camp, Tibet


Namaste,

Byron

Monday, November 3, 2014

Nov. 3, 2014. Bhaktapour Party...

I had 2 vests custom made here in Bhaktapour for about $25.00 each.  They are very colorful.

Met the gang at 6:30.  They closed the Pashmina Shop, we ordered food and  then we drank some Nepali whiskey.

Shree says he is trying to loose weight......but I do not believe him.....



Shree. "Big Brother, Little Brother."  The former multi-time Nepali National Men's gymnastic champ.
Shree is a good man that makes me smile every time I see him.

We had a hoot tonight.


I am obviously not finding it hard to have a good time....


Sunday, November 2, 2014

Nov. 3, 2014. 24 hours to Lhasa Departure.



Tibet Nepal Friendship Highway

The 850-kilometer-long Friendship Highway was completed and opened to traffic in 1967, with 736 kilometers in China and 114 kilometers in Nepal. It is Tibet's sole outbound highway leading to overseas. The highway itself starts from Lhasa, passing the turquoise Yamdrok Lake, through Chusu, Shigatse, Lhaze, Dingri, Nielamu, on to the Nepali border at Zhangmu, and ends at the defense highway of Katmandu, capital of the Kingdom of Nepal.

The following is from FreeTibet.org:

Human rights in Tibet

Human rights.jpgTibetans’ civil and political rights are under constant attack by the Chinese authorities who will stop at nothing to suppress dissent. 

Every aspect of Tibetan life is under siege from a Chinese leadership determined to gradually eradicate a whole culture

The Tibetan flag and national anthem are banned. Possession of a picture of the Dalai Lama can result in torture and imprisonment. 

Even children face abuses of their freedom and human rights in Tibet.

Here are just a few human rights case studies of people who have suffered abuses under China's regime.

No right to protest

Tibetans are not free to protest or openly speak about their situation. Even peaceful demonstrations are met with heavy handed, military crackdowns. 

Military.jpgIn 2008, thousands of Tibetans staged the largest protests in Tibet for over 50 years. Demonstrations swept across the entire Tibetan plateau.

Chinese authorities arrested an estimated 6,000 protestors, of which the fate of about 1,000 still remains unknown.

The upsurge in self-immolations and other protests since 2011 has led the Chinese authorities to step up security and attempt to impose even tighter control over Tibet.

Political prisoners tortured and killed

Prisons in Tibet are full of people detained for simply expressing their desire for freedom. People have been arrested and sentenced to prison for peaceful acts, such as:

  • waving the Tibetan flag
  • distributing leaflets
  • sending information about events in Tibet abroad

Image credit Pedro SaraivaThe Chinese deem these acts as ‘splittist’ or ‘subversive’. 

Many Tibetans are imprisoned on unclear or unspecified charges, their families not informed of their whereabouts.

Released prisoners report of having been subjected to beatings, electric shocks, and being deprived of food and drink. A 2008 UN report found that the use of torture in Tibet was ‘widespread’ and ‘routine’.

Read more about torture in Tibet and see a list of just some political prisoners.

Restricting information

China attempts to control all information in and out of Tibet. TV, radio, printed media and the internet are subjected to strict monitoring and censorship. 

Access is blocked to TV and radio broadcasters based outside China, which provide news services in Tibetan languages.

Foreign journalists are rarely allowed entry into Tibet, and when they are, they are closely chaperoned by Chinese officials.

Reporters Without Borders ranked China 175 out of the 180 countries on its Press Freedom Index 2014. Professor Carole McGranahan has also stated that there are more foreign journalists in North Korea than Tibet.

Lack of religious freedom

kaiash1_nocredit.jpgBuddhism is central to Tibetan life and monasteries and nunneries are kept under tight surveillance. Police stations are often situated nearby (or inside).

Monks and nuns have been beaten, jailed and tortured.

They are regularly subjected to ‘patriotic re-education programmes’, for weeks at a time.

During these programmes, they are forced to read ‘patriotic’ literature denouncing the Dalai Lama.

Those who refuse to take part, or fail the programme, often have their rights to practice as monks and nuns taken away.

Political rights

A US State Department human rights report published in May 2012 said that "ethnic Han Chinese Communist Party members hold almost all top government, police, and military positions in the Tibet Autonomous Region and other areas of Tibet."


Introduction to Tibet

"Tibet today is one of the most repressed and closed societies in the world." 
Senator Robert Menendez, Chair of US Senate Committee on Foreign Relations, 2012

Photo credit Pedro SaraviaChina invaded Tibet in 1950. Its occupation has resulted in the deaths of hundreds of thousands of Tibetans and the imprisonment and torture of thousands more.

After a failed uprising against Chinese rule in 1959, Tibet’s political and spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama, fled into exile in India followed by tens of thousands of Tibetans. 

Inside its borders and across the world, Tibetans have never stopped believing Tibet is a nation. Since 1959, they have continued to oppose and resist China's rule and China has responded with intense repression. 

In 2014, US think tank Freedom House ranked Tibet among the twelve worst countries in the world for repression of political and civil rights. 

Geography

  • Free Tibet uses the term 'Tibet' to refer to the three original provinces of U-Tsang, Kham and Amdo.
  • When the Chinese refer to Tibet, they invariably mean the Tibet Autonomous Region or TAR, which includes only U-Tsang.
  • The Chinese renamed Amdo as the province of Qinghai and Kham was incorporated into the Chinese provinces of Sichuan, Gansu and Yunnan.

MapTibet2013edit.jpg

Here are just some of the challenges faced by Tibetans as a result of China's occupation. 

Economic discrimination

Photo credit Jim McGill

  • In many places, Tibetans are a minority as a result of China's encouragement of ethnic Chinese migration to Tibet.
  • The language of business in Tibet is now Chinese. Many Tibetans are not literate in Chinese and are disadvantaged in business and the jobs market. 
  • Most Tibetans work in agricultural sector while most economic activity outside of agriculture is controlled by the central government or state owned corporations.
  • Most tourist activity is located in urban centres where the main employees are ethnic Chinese migrants.
  • The Chinese government has forced thousands of Tibetans to abandon their traditional rural nomadic lifestyle and move into new housing colonies or towns. Many of these people do not have the skills or experience to compete for jobs in the urban environment.

Religious suppression

  • Since 1949, the Chinese have destroyed over 6,000 Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and shrines.
  • By 1978 only 8 monasteries and 970 monks and nuns remained in the TAR.
  • The number of monks and nuns allowed to enter monasteries and nunneries is limited. Any reference or images of the Dalai Lama are banned.
  • The Chinese government places officials in every monastery to monitor and often to control religious activity. 

Read more about the treatment of monks and nuns in Tibet.

Political oppression

  • The Chinese have responded to uprisings with extreme violence and around 300,000 Chinese soldiers are posted in Tibet.
  • Tibetans are subject to intense surveillance of their daily activities and communications.
  • China has repeatedly violated UN conventions through extensive use of torture against Tibetan political prisoners - often monks or nuns.
  • Tibet is governed directly by the Chinese Communist Party in Beijing. No Tibetan has ever been appointed Party Secretary - the most senior government post - in the TAR.
Well, followers, I guess my blogging attempts will be met with diffilculties similar to those I encountered in Myanmar.  As independent travel is prohibited in Tibet, I guess I will just keep my head down and be a part of the tourist group.


Nov. 2, 2014. In My Element.

I missed Halloween, but I am in my element.  Packing, unpacking, sorting, organizing, storing, repacking in a multitude of handy little travel bags.  Looking at maps.  Researching and trip planning.  Shopping.  

Getting ready for cold weather...might be down to 20F on the high passes - one is over 16,000 feet - on the way to Lhasa.


Always looking for a bargain, checking prices,  but willing to pay fairly for what I want or need.

Bought a vest today in Thamel that will be made of a Nepali fabric that I thought colorful.  Will pick it up upon my return from Lhasa.   Bought some nick nacks - a pair of trivets made of yak wool and another hat....maybe the fifth?

The drIve from Baktapuhr to Thamel - and vice versa -  has become nornal. I often do not put on a seat belt - because there is none.  It has become like a 10 mile ride to the grocery store in the US, only much more entertaining, exciting and exhilarating.

Paid for the trip to Lhasa then picked up the T shirts that I ordered last week....





A bit pretentious, but for only $5.00, why not?

Had a tour of Bkaktapour with Shree, a national champion in gymnastics and the man who makes things happen on the ground in Nepal for iTrekNepal. 

I sat at an adjoining table as Shree gave a briefing for the trek to Everst Base Camp, on the Nepali side of the Himayayas - a 12 -14 day trek - for an Iriish gent named Paul that has lived in Australia for 20 years.  He was 50.  This is the trek I am planning to take after the Lhasa trip so it was a good briefing for me about what to expect.

Nepal is great place, especially when the local iTrekNepal staff treats me like a brother in law. 

Shree, built much like me but shorter, also stocky and only 30,  often describes us as "Big brother, little brother."


All is good in Nepal. I am 1/3 of the way through my walkabout and constantly find myself saying "I am a traveler.  I am in my element."

I am about to become a tourist - in the first package tour of my walkabout - during the 8 day trip to Lhasa.  You cannot visit Tibet unless you are guided.  No solo travelers allowed.    

Might be time for the ipod and the Bose earbuds.......no telling who I will be traveling with in the van or sharing a room with.  But I will make new friends, no doubt.

With a little luck, I hopefully reserved the front passenger seat in the van of 9 tourists.  Better view, easier in and out, more legroom and not jammed on a bench seat with 3 other travelers.  And there will be a shoulder harness and possibly airbags.  

Might be time for a front seat  "Oh, Shit" ride - like the van ride from Luang Prabang to Phonsavahn last year.  

Kathmandu to Lhase is about 600 miles and China restricts the inet and especially blogs and any info about Tibet, so I will probably not be able to post daily blog updates until my return to Nepal on 11/11.
Probably the same inet blocks that I often experienced in Myanmar.  If I can post, I will. 

Please use my email account to contact me.  I always enjoy a hello.  

On Walkabout.  Bound for Tibet.

Namaste.




Nov. 1, 2014. Bhaktapour to Thamel then back to Bhaktapour


Typical, on every pole,  everywhere in Kathmandu.



Breakfast spot in a side street in Thamel.  For $4.00, fresh ground coffee, 2 eggs, toast/butter/jam, potatoes, yogurt with granola, a glass of fresh squeezed  OJ.









Saturday, November 1, 2014

Nov. 1, 2014. Bus From Pokhara to Kathmandu.






Left the Tropicana Hotel at 7:15 and went by cab to the Pokhara Tourist Bus Station.  The busses were lined up like military vehicles preparing for an assault.  I counted 20 of them.  Most left at 7:30; mine left at 8:00.  Three stops, like the trip to Pokhara, and we arrived at 3 PM in Kathmandu.

Caught a taxi to Bhaktapour and checked back into the $8.00 room just off Durbar Square that I had last week.

The bus ride seemed less intense than the ride to Pokhara last week.  No bodies on the side of the road, fewer near miss collisions.   Maybe I did not watch as closely.  Maybe I have become accustomed to Nepali bus travel and the risks involved.

The road up the hill.

Nepal is about the size of Arkansas, with about 25 million people.  Most people are very poor - Kathmandu and Pokhara are two of the three largest cities.....

Nepal is a third nation country - like Lao, Cambodia, Myanmar.

Nepal, like Lao, does not have port access and this eliminates the opportunity for maritime international export/import and increases the cost of oil and other imports.  Oil and propane are imported.  Vehicles are small.   Most electric is hydro, but I have seen no dams.

I went to an appliance and TV store with Shree today and - like the US - everything in the store was made in China or Japan.  

I have not seen steel mills, foundries, or manufacturing of any substance.  But there are brick and cinder block factories, and also lots of natural stone/gravel being hauled, dumped, piled and carried everywhere.  I imagine the portland cement is imported from China or India.

It is like much of backwater Mexico...a work in progress.  But never finished.  

Nepal is scenically beautiful, but there is trash everywhere.   There is no effort to pick up trash - unless it is cardboard, plastic bottles or glass bottles - which have recycle value.   Open a bag of chips, buy a bottle of water......ditch it on the ground when finished.    The amount of trash on trails, in streets and on the side of the road diminishes the natural beauty of the country.  Trash is everywhere.  Often you see piles of trash being burned.......most of it petro chem plastic trash.

Nepal is poor, but it is not as poor as Myanmar - at least the small portion in the far eastern side of the country that I visited last year.  There is rural electricity, most rural dwellings are either brick, stome or concrete - many with corrugated galvanized roofs.  There are numerous wells and running water - streams or springs - and many rural households haul water for indoor use.  The women haul the water, work in the fields, cook, care for the children.  Many men just sit around.

Will hang in the area for two days and depart for Lhasa on 11/4.