Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Nov. 18, 2014. Namche to Khumjung and Back.

Left at 7:30 and headed uphill from11,286 feet elevation to12,729 feet at Hotel Everest View where we had tea. The hotel claims to be the highest hotel in the world.  



Then we went down to Khumjung.


This was an acclimatization day to prepare for the trip to Tangbouche tomorrow.  The one day rest yesterday was a good thing.  I felt strong and had good wind on the uphill, albeit slow compared to the 24 year old Nepalis.  I did not look for pointy sticks nor did I think about helocopters, but we saw quite a few buzzing around in mid morning.

The views of Everest, Ana Dablam, Lhotse, and the other peaks were spectacular.  Typically it is sunny and clear in the AM, and starts clouding up around 2 or 3.  By 3 you can not see any mountains.

Stopped in Khumjung for a bowl of soup at 12:30, then headed first up then down to Namche, arriving back at Hotel Namche at 2:30.

Everest, right.

Above Namche on the way down.

Everest, center, Ama Dablam, right, on the deck at Hotel Everest View.  It lives up to its name.



Namche, elevation 11,286 feet.

Leaving Khumjung.

A good day. We hiked about 6 miles today.




Sunday, November 16, 2014

Nov. 16, 2014. Namche.

Hit the trail at 7:30 AM, and arrived at Namche (AKA Namche Bazaar) at 3:30 PM.  The last 4 hours was continuous, steep, uphill for about 3 miles.  I was beat.

It was a tough day.  I looked for pointed sticks in the steep, all rock trail, but could not find any with sharp enough points or that were long enough.  I looked continuously.  The sticks I saw would only cause superficial injuries or a bad bruise, I thought.  I wished for a giant landslide above me.  That would be quick.   I thought about using one of my hiking poles.  Who can I get to hold the pointy end up so I can impale myself? 

I don't know how I will make back down. to Lukla.  It is only 2000 feet down to Lukla, but I think you could add another 1000 feet of downhill for all the ups and downs.

Going downhill is hard on my knees.  May explore taking a helo for the 20 minute ride back to Lukla, spending some of the AAPL gains of the last 2 weeks vs. spending 2 days of torture and 15 miles of knee pounding on the rocks.

Namche is about 11,300 feet in elevation, about  the same as the summit of Mt. Hood, or Old Loveland Pass in Colorado, or at Climax, near Leadville, CO, where I worked as a hard rock miner in 1974.  

I am now in my Guest House room, showered, fed, listening to Springsteen on the Bose buds, pecking on my iPhone, under the electric blanket, which is on high.  I would have paid big dollars to soak in a hot tub at 4:15 PM today.





We took the higher bridge.....


I watched as 110 pound Nepali men all day hauled up to 120 pound loads uphill.  They were passing me like I was standing still, which I often was - gasping......

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Nov. 15, 2014. Phakding.

Lukla Airport.  Watch some of the videos on YouTube!!!


Hiked 3.5 hours from Lukla to Phakding. Feel good.  2100 feet uphill tomorrow to Namche Bazzar.

This is the Nepali route to Everest Base Camp, but will not go all the way up to EBC.

Lots of rocks.  Yaks.  Porters carrying 80 to 100 pound loads.








Namaste.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Nov.14, 2014 Thamel & Bhaktapour

Leave at 6 AM to fly to Lukla, called "The Most Dangerous Airport in the World" (search YouTube for Lukla Airport) to start my trek towards the Nepali Everst Base Camp.  Traveling extremely light.  Left the iPad, so posts will be short next week or two, since I hate posting via iPhone.




Krishna

Please read earlier post re: cremations written by Krishna.

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Nov. 4, 2014. Kathmandu to Lhasa. Day 1.

A recreation, since my digital daily notes were lost.   At least I have maps and daily diary notes to recreate the daily blog entry.  This blog will be updated over the next two weeks with pics and text.

Met Biju at 7 AM, then had tea across the street from the Pashmina Store and iTrekNepal's office.  After tea, I rode on the back of Biju's motorcycle down through Bhaktapour, wearing my Tibet bound 15 kilo backpack and holding my daysack, down to the main road from downtown Kathmandu - to meet the bus with the Tibet Trip travelers.

Waited 45 minutes with Biju, then boarded the bus with the 9 other Kathmandu to Lhasa travelers.

About 2 hrs out, while still in Nepal,  we encountered a giant landslide.

It was a massive landslide that occured earlier this year and killed 150 people. 

The bus slowly traversed along the road that had recently been cut through the landslide by bulldozers.   Tires spun on the bus as we went upward through the loose rock, dust and boulders of the landslide.  At times, the clutch on the bus smoked and smelled, but we continued to slowly, methodically, plow uphill over pure rockgravel and deep dust.  At times in over 6" of fine, dry dust.  

I looked out my window - almost straight down 900 feet - directly below my bus window.  The road was not paved, there were no guardrails.  It was the most basic road imaginable through a landslide over 3/4 mile wide that allowed millions of tons of earth to move thousands of yards downhill.  It was straight down 2 feet from where tne bus tires were.  My seat was about 8 feet ahead of the rear tires.

It scared the shit out of everyone, except the driver and the guide.  


I thoiught we should get out and push.  Others had the same thougts.  My notes say "Would roll 100's of times over 700 feet almost straight down through rock. Big, big rocks."


We made it through, but it scared the shit out of me.  

We got to the Chinese border,  had lunch and had to carry our bags 500 meters uphill.  We then crossed the Chinese border on foot and changed busses, drivers and guides.  We left the Nepali guide behind and met our new Tibetan guide who I will call Mr. Mao. As in Tse Tung. He did not want his name used.

There is nothing quite like crossing an international border on foot.  Airport country entry has no comparison to overland border crossing. 

Explicity, " Do not take photos of police".  So I did.

In Nepal, making a few notes over lunch and beer before walking across the border to Tibet and China.

Upon entry to Tibet, I immediately noticed a dramatic improvement in the roads.  Concrete, smooth pavement, guard rails,  60+ kph on straight stretches of the road, but most of the first afternoon in Tibet was uphill and slow.

Mt Everest in distance.

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Nov. 11, 2014. Lhasa to Kathmandu. Flying Southwest Over the Himalayas.

We got up early in the Lhasa hotel and had a quick breakfast then hopped in the bus while it was still dark and cold.  It was the warmest morning of the trip and it was about 32 F.


The Lhasa airport is about 30 miles from town, on the south side of a ridge that divides the two valleys.  Unfortunately, the 3km tunnel that makes it a short trip,was closed for repairs so we had to take the long way around.  It took almost 2 hours on a rough, uncharistic Chinese road.

The airport was modern.

We checked our bags then sat and waited for our 11:55 AM departure.  The plane was a Boeing 737 or similar, with 3 seats on each side of the center row.  I was in one of the rear rows with a aisle seat.  There were empty seats behind me so moved to the very last row on the left side - at the window -as we flew over the Himalayas on the 1.5 hour flight.

Departing from Lhasa, at 12,000 feet, it was one of the lowest elevations on our journey through Nepal.    As we gained altitude and flew over the Himalayas, the mountains were only 5000 feet or so below us as we cruised at 460 MPH.  It was visually much different than flying over the Rockies that are at most 14,000 feet above sea level.  The 25,000+ foot peaks of the Himalayas were right there below us.  I thought there would  be more snow on the peaks.

We landed. at KTM, cleared customs and immigration.  I had only one day remaining on my 30 day Nepal VISA.  I said good bye to the group, spent 5 minutes haggling over taxi fare and got a ride to Bhaktapour for 9000 rupees.  Originally, the drivers wanted 40,000 rupees.

Back in Bhaktour I settled into my old room at the Mountain Guest house with the private bath on the third floor.  Drank some beers, organized my gear, cleaned up and got ready to head to Kathmandu tomorrow to renew my VISA and then go to Thamel to have diner with the Tibet crew that was still in town.



Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Nov. 11, 2014. Pics upload.


Now that I am back online, I thought I would upload a few pics....









Hat shopping.

Debating Monks

Potala Palace, Lhasa.  It is surrounded by modern China.

Modern China in Lhasa.

The crew.

Looks alot like Nevada, but at 12,500 feet base elevation.



Down a high pass on 11/8 on the way to Lhasa.

Everest Base Camp, on the Tibet side.  5200 meters or 17,060 feet elevation.  Taking a deep breath does not help much when going uphill.  Mt. Everest in rear.

Hat shopping.....again.  I bought it for 100 Yuan, after starting to bargain at 350 Yuan.  (6.1 Yuan/$)

Namaste.