I was able to get the front passenger seat, but was not alone. A Hmong about 65 or so sat in the middle jump seat between me and the driver. After we got underway he pulled out a little video cam and filmed much of the drive through the windshield. Not your normal Lao, he was dressed spiffy, had nice shoes and the digital camera. Too many expensive high tech toys for a Lao, I thought.
Turned out he lived in Sacramento and was back home visiting family. On the drive he pointed out hilltops that were Lima Sites, the CIA and Air America helicopter/STOL landing sites, where he and his family lived during the war and the bombing. Places where he fought the Pathet Lao. He was 17 when he joined Vang Pao's resistance fighters........the Hmong "Good Guys" that were funded by the CIA and supported by air drops of rice and ammo from Air America. He said the youngest soldiers in Vang Pao's army were about 13.
The views were spectacular once we got back to the T where the road 13 goes north to Luang Prabang and south to Vientiane/Vang Vieng and road 7 goes east to/from Phonsavan. The first 3 hours was backtracking to the west on road 7, the the same road we traveled 4 days ago from the T eastbound to Phonsavan. The driver had few if any "Oh, Shit" moments. He drove sanely.
We arrived in Vang Vieng after 6 hours in the van. I did not know what to expect upon arrival. 6 or 8 years ago, the place was a totally wild, uncontrolled town where anything would go and lots of free liquor was available and many places sold magic mushroom shakes, pot pizzas, joints, etc. I read somewhere that if 19 year olds could design and run a town, it would be like Vang Vieng. It was on the way from Phonsavan to Vientiane, so i just had to stop and see this place.
After numerous young tourists drowned in the river several years ago......drunk, high as kites and with everyone acting wild and crazy, the Lao government clamped down on the town and cleaned the place up.....a little bit.
Vang Vieng is the ultimate SE Asia backpacker "rite of passage" destination. It was mostly young folks...and just a few older tourists. Every storefront is either a Guest House, or a rafting/kayaking/tubing//bicycle/motoscooter/hiking/treking/quad 4 wheeler/caving/climbing outfitter or a T shirt shop or a restaurant.
When I hit town, I asked the tuktuk driver to take me to the river. Most of the backpacker Guest Houses are off the water, in the town proper, and less expensive. Found a place on the river with a killer view, on the third floor for 200,000 kip a night.
From the patio.....
Checked in, hauled my pack up to the third floor and settled in. Had a BeerLao on the patio and soaked it all in.
After sunset headed out for dinner. I was thinking about one of Vang Vieng 's famous (or infamous) "Happy Pizzas."
Stopped only once and asked.....yes, yes, around the corner.
Stopped at the designated place and was greeted by a young blonde in a tank top, cut offs and sandals from Michigan. "Yes, yes, we serve them here."
I thought "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." When in Vang Vieng, do as the young backpackers do. Anyway, I am on walkabout.
She explained the offerings....plain blunts - 3 to an order, opium blunts, pot pizzas, opium tea, magic mushroom pizzas, mushroom shakes.. All were 100,000 Kip each.
I was ready for a BeerLao and dinner in Vang Vieng, Lao PDR.!!
After making my inquiries and contemplating my next move, I felt a slight tap on my shoulder and ........there were the French couple, Francois and Latitetia. I met them on the long boat down the Mekong several weeks ago. I last saw them at dinner in Louang Prabang my last night there - 5 days ago.
Yes, yes, they finally got the passport back but they were out hundreds for the fast boat tback upriver to Pak Beng, the lost cash, the bribes they had to pay, the 4 nights at a Guest House in Louang Prabang while they waited for the passport to make it down the Mekong from Pak Beng. (See the blog about day 2 on the long boat down the Mekong).
I told them I would buy beer and dinner for them in celebration of meeting once again and getting the passport back.
I briefly described the special menu. Francois said "You have got to be kidding!!"
I said "No!!!! Lets have a beer and catch up on our travels." I wanted to hear more about the recovery of the passport and wanted to tell someone I knew about my experiences in Phonsavan and The Plain of Jars.
Upstairs was the "smoking room" a safe place to partake of the establishment's offerings. We took our beers upstairs, shared a blunt, although I was coughing considerably since I was only about 8 days of hospital from the pneumonia.
We had our pizzas delivered there. There were about 6 or so other folks upstairs, mostly smoking blunts. The owner must make payoffs to the police to keep them out of the place. There are several of these bars around town, and many fewer than 8 years ago. It is kind of like finding the "coffee houses" in Amsterdam. They are lots of them...you just need to make a few inquiries.
All gone. Yikes, now we have to find our way home to our Guest Houses.......
Morning has broken, so I must have made it home safely last night.....
Trippin' back to the 60's a' la Height-Ash bury......'course I was in grade school, but I'm guessing that that was the atmosphere....Byron, you clearly are having some dandy experiences and fun....lots of interesting folk crossing your path!!!!!!!
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