Was not sure if there would be space for me on the Shompoo Cruise Boat this morning, as I never received a reservation confirmation back from the tour operator. There was a free shuttle ride from the hotel in Houay Xay, Laos (across the river from Chiang Khong, Thailand) to the riverbank...where about half a dozen long boats were tied up. When the taxi - actually a tuktuk - arrived to pick everyone up, I just acted like I belonged. Boarded the boat and after an hour of waiting we departed around 10 AM.
The Purser, a term used lightly, came around with a list of names for those that had booked, I was not on the list. We were already underway, so just guessed I was a passenger and it would all workout one way or another. Purser just said "No problem." I settled in for the ride.
Guess I could be called a stowaway.
Free form travel - no resevations, no hotels, no advance tickets....just take it as it goes...or comes. The only reservation I currently hold is my departure from Siem Reap on February 5 at 10:50 PM headed back home.
Jiab coined a nickname for me at the Janispour in Chiang Rai - "This Man Has No Plan." Call it walkabout travel in the Lao DPR down the Mekong.
On much of the upper reaches from our departure point the shoreline has been rocked...like many North American rivers....to control erosion of the riverbank during high water. Considerable development i.e. a few houses and Wats, out buildings, etc. along the banks in some places, heavy equipment shoring the bank with quarried rock.
A bit cool - put on socks, long pants, a hat, a polypro long sleeve T shirt and a GotreTex jacket to cut the chill. Is about 65F, cloudy. Many people are wrapped in fleece blankets.
Further downriver - now full in the Lao PDR and no longer plying the border between Lao and Thailand, it has become more mountainous, remote, less developed. Some hills 2000 to 2500 feet above the river.
About halfway to Pak Beng, stopped at a hill village of Hmong. All the children were in school. Whenever anyone poked their head in the classroom....which was a bamboo hut...all the children stood up, said hi, and waved like an obidient communist army.
Some of the $ for the boat ride are donated to the community by Shompoo for books, desks, teachers and clothing for the children.
Made it to Pak Beng, the halfway point on the river route to Louang Prabang right at sunset.
Lots of smokey fires line the main street in Pac Beng where locals are cooking street food. When boats arrive on the bank, the town comes to life...everyone is looking for and checking into a room. Rooms range from $10.00 to $135.00 a night at the high end hotel in town. My room was just under $15.00. Would guess that several hundred folks depart the boats...around sunset.....ours had about 25 people.
Do not have a TV tonight, am on the ground floor, literally10 feet off the main street street through Pak Beng. Might be a night for the noise cancelling hearbuds. Lots of motorcycles.
Beautiful, peaceful boat ride down the Mekong today. A bit cool in the AM, but was really nice in the afternoon. Was able to snag one of the 4 lounge chairs for the ride. Laid back, slept, had lunch onboard...fish something wrapped in bananna leaves, a soup, a sweet/sour chicken with green peppers, onions, some rice, fruit.
After lodging check in, met Andy and Rondi for dinner. We had authentic Indian food cooked by an Indian immigrant to Laos. It was an excellent dinner - tandori chicken, masala chicken, pan, and a few Beer Laos. The best meal I have had so far. At dinner we were joined by others from the boat....the British Dentist and her boyfriend who in an Engineer for Aerobus, the French couple that have been traveling for 12 months and have been all over the world, and several Germans.
My appetite has returned, but the cough lingers. Walking up the riverbank to town from the boat was an effort...my lung function has not returned but I am over the sweats and lack of appetite.
All is good. Today was an excellent, relaxing, peaceful, scenic day. Will depart Pak Beng at 8:00 AM tomorrow and head downriver to Louang Prabang.
Pak Beng is about in the middle of the map. We departed from Houay Xai, Laos (opposite Chiang Khong, Thailand) on the left side of the map in the AM.
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